In 1853, Levi Strauss set up shop in San Francisco, catering to the recent influx of cash from the Gold Rush.
Originally a purveyor of dried goods, Strauss soon partnered with the tailor Jacob Davis in 1873 to create a line of “waist overalls” with metal rivets at the pants’ stress points. And by 1890, the first pairs of 501s were being sold in markets across California.
In the century since then, Levi’s has become the best-selling and best-recognized brand of jeans on the planet. They’ve introduced dozens of new styles, each with a specific fit, feel, and material composition.
In this guide to Levi’s jeans numbers, we’re going to break down each and every one of them for you, starting with the original 501s. Just keep in mind that the numbers designate the starting point for the fit—after that, you can find specific variations (slim, tapered, etc.) for each numbered style.
501: Original
The jeans that started it all. They come with a straight leg, a vintage fit that sits naturally at the waist, and Levi’s signature button fly. Can’t go wrong with a classic.
502: Taper
Offering a regular fit through the seat and thigh, Levi’s 502s also sit low on the waist. These small changes from the 501s give the 502s a more casual, laid-back look and feel, and a more modern aesthetic.
505: Regular
A straight fit, mid-rise waist, and more room through the thigh make the 505s as regular as can be. They’re the style of jeans featured on the cover of The Rolling Stones’ 1971 album Sticky Fingers.
510: Skinny
Rock star styling is the name of the game with the form-fitting Levi’s 510s. They’re skin-tight from the hip through the leg, with a narrow taper at the leg opening that’s just asking to be tucked into a pair of Doc Martens.
511: Slim
Somewhere between skinny and standard, you have the 511 slims. They have a narrower fit through the hips and thighs, but not as pronounced of a taper or cling as your average pair of skinny jeans. A classic mid-rise waist ties the look together.
512: Slim Taper
Modern and stylish without being garish, the 512s take the tailored look of the 511s and then taper the lower leg opening even more. A classic skater kid look, they also pair perfectly with a band t-shirt and a pair of Chuck Taylors.
513: Slim Straight
A low waist, narrow hips and thighs, and straight leg cut make the Levi’s 513s a workplace-ready jean. They’re as close as you can get to chinos while still wearing jeans.
514: Straight
A low waist, regular fit through the hips and thighs, and straight legs make the 514s the spitting image of workman’s jeans. They’re for guys who aren’t looking to show off the goods so much as put in an honest day’s work.
517: Bootcut
The 70s called, and they’re happy to share their jeans with us. Levi’s 517s are built with a flared leg opening that’s part cowboy and part counterculture, and cut with a somewhat slim fit that’s stylish and subtle.
527: Slim Bootcut
Take the 517s and make them even slimmer, and you have the 527s. They’re less cowboy and more urban fashion, and that makes them a great look for everyday wear around the city.
531: Athletic Slim
If you’re slim, but not that slim—i.e., you still have some muscle on your frame—then you’re the perfect candidate for a pair of 531s. They’re made to flatter the more athletic build, with a low rise and a little bit more room in the seat to accommodate those well-developed glutes of yours.
541: Athletic Taper
If your gym routine includes heavy squats, then your wardrobe probably needs to include a pair of 541s. They’re made with plenty of room through the seat and thighs, so you’ll never have to cram your gams into them. And the taper at the lower leg keeps them looking cool and classy, rather than boxy or baggy.
550: Relaxed
Dad jeans? Dad jeans. The 550s are loose throughout the seat and thigh, and fit higher up on your waist. They’re meant for moving around in, and they also have a tapered leg that keeps them from looking too cartoonish.
559: Relaxed Straight
Low rise. Loose fit. Straight leg. The 559s are for the man of leisure, and for the man who doesn’t care about how large and floppy the leg openings of his jeans are. They’re extra roomy.
569: Loose Straight
This one’s made for the big boys, the linebackers, the hockey players. The 569 is Levi’s loosest and roomiest fit, with extra room everywhere. If you’re anything short of beefcake status, you’ll be swimming in these.
A Final Note: Vintage Levi’s Styles
The above list covers all of the Levi’s styles currently available.
But you’ve probably noticed that there are quite a few numbers missing, right? That’s partly because Levi’s doesn’t sell every number of jeans they’ve designed, and partly because they’ve stopped producing a few lines of jeans.
If you’re going through a thrift store, you may find Levi’s jeans in the 600s, 700s, and 800s, too. And you’d be well advised to pick them up even if they’re not your size, because well-maintained vintage Levi’s can fetch a pretty penny in an online auction.
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